Julia Soares-McCormick models one of her renaissance creations
“But Elizabeth is yours. Watch her as she grows; she’s yours. She’s a Tudor. Get yourself a son off that sweet pale girl if you can – and hope that he will live”.
Passionate words delivered by actress Genevieve Bujold, as she plays the role of Anne Boleyn in the 1969 film Anne of a Thousand Days.
Watching the performance on film is a very young lady, totally engrossed in the performances of Genevieve and her co-star Richard Burton and the romance and beauty of the gowns, sets and costumes used in the production.
From that moment, Julia Soares-McCormick’s interest and fascination in period costume would fire career ambitions and a passion to recreate the past, specifically the beauty, form and structure of designs direct from the Tudor catwalk.
Am I setting the scene? Let’s travel back in time.
Julia Soares-McCormick
The journey started when Julia started winning first prizes for art and design at school, skills that were later honed at Sunderland and Nottingham Trent University from where she graduated with a BA (Hons) in Theatre Design.
“Working from conception on projects in theatre and set production, I became engrossed in designing sets, costumes and setting the scenes historically and was part of the team responsible for My Fair Lady at Haymarket, Leicester,’ she said.
Now working part-time at Northumbria University, Julia is devoting more time to recreating fashion designs from the past and has set up her own business, Renaissance Costumes, to showcase and promote her extraordinary skills.
The research is painstaking before a single stitch is sewn. Julia uses portraits of Tudor notables such as Anne Boleyn to help lay the foundations of her creations. Inspiration also comes from sumptuous productions such as the Six Wives of Henry VIII and more recently, Elizabeth I and The Other Boleyn Girl.
Attention to detail is everything from the Farthingale, a six hooped petticoat using materials that are as closely matched as possible, to the chemise and corset worn underneath, followed by the garments worn on top.
Historically, cheaper materials were used for the petticoats and luxurious and more expensive silks and satins would be used for the underskirt seen at the front of the gown. This material would be also be used to match the sleeves. In fact ladies would often be given sleeves as a present.
Julia hand stitches semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli and pearls onto the second underskirt and the matching materials on the hanging sleeves. A choice of at least 35 different designs of sleeves could have been used during this era. Layer upon layer is added until the dress is ready.
This is then followed by brooches, jewellery and necklaces all lovingly crafted from those depicted in portraits. Elizabeth I as a 13 year old, painted in 1546 and a Holbein of Queen Jane dating back to 1536 are among those to have provided information and inspiration.
Some of Julia’s finest creations were recently given an outing in all their glory at Crook Hall in Durham. Steeped in history itself the ambience of this wonderful place was the perfect location and who is to say that similar fashions have not graced the residence at some time in the past.
Julia, who did the modelling on this occasion, too, said: “I love the feeling I have when I put on the costume. The designs and corsetry can completely change the shape of a woman and I am transported right back in history when I wear them. It’s sheer indulgence”.
Click on any thumbnail photos below to see the enlarged version…
Now she wants to secure design commissions for theatre, film and television. She is also very happy to visits schools, lecture, display her costumes and would like to design and make wedding dresses based on historical gowns.
And of course, if you are ever stuck for something to wear at a Masquerade Ball….
For more information Julia can be contacted at: julia.renaissancecostumes@googlemail.com
Special thanks to Crookhall, Co.Durham for the use of facilities for our photoshoot . For further info log on to www.crookhallgardens.co.uk
Click on the panel below to see Julia’s renaissance fashion show at Crook Hall in Durham.